October 4, 2013
Q&A with Helmut Lang creative directors, Nicole & Michael Colovos. Interview taken from Helmut Lang Journal.
Tell us about the Helmut Lang Spring 2014 Collection
We wanted to do a minimal, stripped down collection that is crisp and pure. The prints are inspired by the works of contemporary artist, Wade Guyton, who is known for his linear work and graphic approach to art. Working with sharp, clean lines, the collection is effortless and slouchy. We continued to play with proportions, sharp on top and slouchy on the bottom creating a cool tomboy effect. The clothes hang perfectly away from the body while being straight and unstructured.
This season we bonded wool and leather in jersey, for an easy yet tailored look. We’ve re-interpreted the t-shirt in tightly constructed chintz cotton, as well as a leather version to elevate the classic basic.
For accessories, we launched a new line of multifunctional handbags in a range of bonded and perforated leather to textural skins that compliment the luxe and ease of the new collection. Stringray wraps around clutches and the perfect flat-slide sandal. Shoes range from tough heels to a menswear inspired slip-on loafer.
How do you stay inspired season after season?
We try to keep our eyes open. Everything we do is intuitive and about staying in touch with our surroundings. As our culture shifts, something old can all of a sudden feel new again. It’s important to stay relevant and in tune with how people live today.
What is your favorite piece from the collection?
Nicole: The matte jersey dress with slits on the side and bonded wool jersey pants. I also love the perforated slide meets loafer and two-strap sandal.
Michael: The bonded wool and leather jersey pieces that look both tailored and unstructured.
When fashion week is over the first thing you do is _______.
Spend the weekend with our family and go back to work.
You guys spend a lot of time on fabric development; tell us something we normally wouldn’t catch about the clothes on first glance.
Our approach is to take classic fabrications and re-imagine them in a modern way. For Spring 2014, we were attracted to chintz linen and sheer silk organza to give our collection that luxe, crisp and pure feeling. All of the color in the collection was lined in white to mute the brightness and create a subtle glow.
When you try on the collection there is an immediate sense of ease and wear-ability to the clothes. Nothing is too tricky, but still feels luxurious which is perfect for the summertime.
Music is very much part of the brand’s DNA. What tunes were you listening to while you were designing this collection?
Michael: I was really into two soundtracks: The Proposition and The Assassination of Jesse James both by Nick Cave and Warren Ellis
You never leave the house without ________.
Nicole: A Helmut Lang black suit jacket, my iPhone, and iPad.
Michael: My clothes and music.